Friday 20 January 2012

Graphic Bar in Soho, London


When hunger strikes, where does one go in Soho? Ho, ho, how about the new Graphic Bar? It says it has food all day and was proven right when we wanted lunch at 4.30pm.

Having just written about the artwork on the exterior of the Wyvern Bindery shop shutter, I was amused to see that Graphic has painted steel shutters in their interior decor. Sharper colors, more formal design, precise font: the latter important because all the pictures were large letters.

Old church chairs and bare wooden tables were nice natural touches against the gaudy steel, and the other walls were filled with paintings hung as in a gallery (apparently for sale, too). Despite the bare look of the photo here, the place was very welcoming and cosy, with soft jazz playing in the background and no tables of noisy people (maybe later) so that conversation could be heard. Being on a quiet square helped.

The menu had tapas-like starters at good prices: 3 for £15, 4 for £18 or so. Three was enough to feed two as lunch, as there was a lot of protein involved in the choices: smoked salmon  and soft cheese on herbal blinis; small cocktail sausages in honey mustard dressing with stilton mash dip; and deep-fried haloumi on skewers with fruit sauce dip. I was particularly impressed with the small sausages, roasted hot and crispy, the dressing consisting of whole mustard seeds in real, dark honey.

These were all presented on Japanese crockery, making it very tasty to the eye (as the Japanese say "me de taberu, or 'eat with the eye'). When the blinis were gone, I turned the plate over to see what kiln they came from, looking for a kiln mark. What did I find but a sticker claiming "Made in China, Microwave Safe, Dishwater Safe". Such a come down.

But I would go back to Graphic again; it's on my list now of where to find really tasty food in London! Just avoid the nighttime crowds....


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